Design & Preparation of the Bed

Location: The rose garden should be located in an area which receives at least 6 - 8 hours of sun a day, preferably morning sun. Beds that are built on a slope allow for better drainage and air circulation. Plant away from trees and large shrubs to avoid roots and shade. Locate near an outside water supply.

Spacing: It is more satisfactory to plant rose bushes in beds, spacing the center of the bushes 2 ½ - 3 feet apart. It is difficult to care for plants if more than 3 rows are planted together because internal accessibility is limited. Climbing roses need to be spaced approximately 6 - 10 feet apart.

Soil Mixture: The entire bed should be dug and turned over to a depth of 16". Create a good loamy soil by mixing two 40 lb. bags of Witherspoon's Planting Mix per bush. If mix is unavailable, use at least 50 lb. of composted cow manure, one bag of soil conditioner and 40 lb. of PermaTill® for 2 bushes. To improve acidic soil and to stimulate root growth, 1 cup of lime and 1 cup of bone meal per bush should be broadcast over the bed. After all materials have been added, till the bed thoroughly. Fall preparation of the soil is advisable to allow for settling, but is not necessary.

Do not use commercial fertilizer in the soil until after new roses bloom, as this will burn the roots.


Planting Bareroot Roses

Fresh bareroot roses should always be planted as soon after receiving them as possible. Soak the roots in a tub of water 2 hours prior to planting.

(Figure 1) Lift out enough soil to allow roots to spread naturally in the hole (1 foot deep and 2 feet in diameter). Add 1 cup of bone meal per bush if not in prepared soil. Form an inverted cone of your soil mixture in the center of the hole.

(Figure 2) Set the plant so that the roots rest down the sides of the cone. The graft knob should be slightly above the ground level.

(Figure 3) Replace the soil and pack carefully around the roots eliminating air pockets under the roots.

(Figure 4) Leave a slight basin around the plant and water using 3 to 5 gallons per plant. Finish filling the hole with soil.

(Figure 5) Finally, mound soil or shredded mulch to the top of the plant and leave until danger of freezing is past. (This is usually around the third week of April in the Piedmont area of North Carolina.) This prevents the canes from drying out or freezing until the root action begins.


Planting Potted Roses

Prepare the bed the same as for bareroot roses. Remove enough soil to carefully set the intact ball of dirt into the hole. Add 1 cup of bonemeal. Set the plant so the graft knob is slightly above ground level. Replace the soil and pack firmly. Leave a slight basin around the plant and water using 3 to 5 gallons per plant.

*Mound as described above. If planting after the leaves are fully developed, mounding is not necessary.


Fertilizing

Newly planted roses should NOT be fertilized until they bloom.

Begin fertilizing established plants in late March with a quick-release rose fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. This may be repeated monthly until two months prior to predicted first frost. An alternative program would include one application of the quick-release in March and a time-release rose fertilizer applied in May. Water plants after fertilizing. Witherspoon offers a special blend of fertilizer that makes fertilizing established roses a one step process each year.


Watering & Mulching

Water is a very important factor in growing roses. Water weekly during the blooming season (April-October). Allow the water to run long enough to penetrate at least 8 inches deep unless there has been sufficient rainfall to penetrate equally. DO NOT USE A SPRINKLER, which encourages blackspot and mildew. We recommend SHUR-FLO™ Watersavers. They are inexpensive, efficient and quickly installed.

A good mulch, such as pine bark, around the plants helps prevent weeds, helps conserve moisture, and keeps the ground cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Witherspoon Shur-Flo™ Water Savers deliver a gentle flow of water, ideal for ROSES!
• Economical & Efficient
• Time Saving!
• Use with standard garden hose


Prevention of Diseases and Insects

A regular spraying program is essential to prevent and/or control fungus diseases and insects. In North Carolina we spray from April through October. Do not spray when the temperature is over 86°F because this will burn the foliage.

Spray should be applied to the underside of the foliage as well as on top and inside the blooms.

Use only freshly mixed formula.
The formula is not effective if mixed and stored.

"Witherspoon Spray Formula."
1 gallon water
5 teaspoons Captan 50%
2 ½ teaspoons Halt (Ferilome Brand)
1 ½ teaspoons Acephate/Orthene*
½ teaspoon Spreader Sticker

* 4 teaspoons of liquid Sevin may be used in place of Orthene but only during prevalence of Japanese Beetles.

Dormant Spray with Lime Sulfur
During dormancy (January in NC, other regions may differ) you should spray bed and bushes with liquid lime-sulfur. Dormant spray may be repeated after two weeks if diseases and insects were a problem during the previous growing year. Do not use lime-sulfur after dormancy breaks and sprouts form.


Weed Control

Most herbicides are extremely toxic to roses. Round-up can be used successfully outside your bed if done VERY carefully. Pre-emergent herbicide granules can be used to prevent growth of weeds if sprinkled over a clean bed. A good mulch saves water, shields roots from heat, discourages weeds and grass, and is of general benefit to rose bushes. We recommend a 2" layer of pine bark mini-nuggets.


Cutting Back & Pruning

In late November or December, after the blooms have been frost bitten, cut back the tall spindly growth to approximately "waist high" (3') to help prevent winter damage.The purpose of pruning is to remove dead, diseased and unhealthy canes as well as to maintain the desired shape of the bush. Reducing the size of the plant at the appropriate time allows for needed air circulation.

When to prune: The best time to prune is when new growth on previously dormant canes reaches ¼" ‚ ½". This marks the time when "dormancy breaks."

How to prune: Using sharp shears, cut above an outside bud at a 45° downward angle. Thin out the center and remove any branch which crosses or rubs against another branch. When a choice between two close-growing canes must be made, leave the newest and healthiest cane. Cut out all weak or diseased canes. The severity of pruning is determined by climate and personal preference. Colder climates require a more severe pruning of 12" - 14" high. Moderate pruning is approximately 24" - 30" high (anything 48" or above is considered high pruning). Specific varieties: Roses are used in a wide variety of landscaping applications. Pruning should reflect the desired usage. Floribundas used as low borders should be cut more severely. Climbers should conform to the trellis or available area. Eliminate all but 5 or 6 strong canes about 6 feet in length. Prune one-time bloomers after flowering. Depending on the variety, miniature roses should be pruned to a height of 5"‚10". Shrub roses, in general, should be pruned by 1/3 of the height.

After pruning: To reduce dieback and protect canes from rose borers, you may want to paint the cane ends with a clear shellac or yellow wood glue. Insulated wire ties may be used to attach a climber to the supporting structure.

Thrips Damage on Roses
Have you seen THIS in your garden?
If you have seen this in your garden, you probably have thrips (Thysanoptera). Thrips are very tiny (nearly microscopic) insects and they are first noticed on whites and other light colored blooms. By the time you notice them they have already established themselves and have done damage to your blooms. In some cases, the bloom is unable to open. Thrips do their damage by puncturing and sucking moisture from petals. Thrips can fly but also travel quickly as they are blown around in swarms in the wind. These minute, light brown-colored insects are so tiny, that they can crawl down into the center of the buds and FEAST in their glorious haven. It is very difficult to reach the center of the blooms with insecticides. Thrips feed on your grass and other plants, and they will also bite you. You may feel a slight tingle or itch on you leg or arm, but you will rarely be able to see the culprit against your skin color.
If you do have a case of thrips on your roses, it is a BAD idea to take a bouquet to your friend who is a patient in the hospital! Once my mom took such a bouquet of roses to my dad, Mr. Witherspoon; they had a good laugh when it dawned on them why he was suddenly itching! - Rhonda W. Pike

Thrips on a rose petal

Maintenance Calendar

This calendar was adapted for the North Carolina Piedmont.

January
• Apply dormant spray (Lime-Sulfur) to existing rose bushes.
• Come to the Garden Shop to pick up your new bareroot roses or place your order to be shipped.
• Begin planting bareroot roses.

February
• Plant bareroot roses.
• Prune existing roses.

March
• Apply a quick-release fertilizer to existing roses.
• Plant bareroot roses.
• Remove mulch, topdress with a 2" layer of cow manure and replace mulch.

April
• After danger of frost, remove mulch from around the graft.
• Begin regular spraying every 7-10 days through October.
• Plant potted roses.

May
• Apply slow-release fertilizer now or continue monthly feedings of quick-release fertilizer through mid-August (or 6 weeks prior to expected frost).
• Continue planting potted roses.

June-October
• Deadhead roses.
• Water weekly.
• Continue spray program.
• Order new roses in October.

November
• Prepare new beds for planting.
• Order new roses.
• Every 2-3 years, have the soil tested and adjust the pH level to a range of 6-6.5.

December
• Cut back roses to "waist high" (3').
• Place mulch 6" high over graft for winter protection.
• Order new roses.